Ingredients

• 1 cup dried chickpeas, picked over
• 3/4 cup chopped onion
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 3 scallions, chopped
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano (preferably Greek), crumbled
• 1/2 cup cornstarch
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
• All-purpose flour for dredging
• About 2 cups safflower oil
• About 2 cups olive oil
• Accompaniment: 8 oz whole-milk plain yogurt (preferably Greek)

Instructions

1. Boil chickpeas in water to cover by 1 inch in a 2-quart saucepan, covered, 2 minutes. Remove from heat and let chickpeas stand, covered, 1 hour. Drain chickpeas in a sieve and return to pan. Simmer in water to cover by 4 inches until tender, about 1 1/4 hours. Drain chickpeas in a sieve set over a bowl and reserve cooking liquid and 1/2 cup chickpeas separately.
2. Cook onion in 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened. Add scallions and oregano and cook, stirring occasionally, until scallions are softened. Purée remaining drained chickpeas, onion mixture, cornstarch, and 1/2 cup reserved cooking liquid in a food processor. (Mixture should be consistency of stiff mashed potatoes; if too stiff, add more cooking liquid.)
3. Roughly mash reserved 1/2 cup whole chickpeas in a bowl and stir in purée and mint with a fork. Season well with salt and pepper.
4. Fry rolls: Form 2-tablespoon mounds of chickpea mixture into balls, then form balls into 2- to 3-inch lengths. Dredge in flour, shaking off excess. Heat enough safflower and olive oils to measure 3/4 inch in a deep 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat until a deep-fat thermometer registers 350°F. Fry rolls in batches of 5, turning them, until golden brown, about 1 minute. Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain and return oil to 350°F between batches.
5. Form 2-tablespoon mounds of chickpea mixture into balls, then form balls into 2- to 3-inch lengths. Dredge in flour, shaking off excess.
6. Heat enough safflower and olive oils to measure 3/4 inch in a deep 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat until a deep-fat thermometer registers 350°F. Fry rolls in batches of 5, turning them, until golden brown, about 1 minute.
7. Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain and return oil to 350°F between batches.