Ingredients

• 2 28-ounces cans whole peeled tomatoes
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 4 ounces guanciale (salt-cured pork jowl), finely chopped
• 4 ounces pancetta (Italian bacon), finely chopped
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
• 1/4 cup tomato paste
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 1 teaspoon sugar (optional)
• Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
• 1 pound penne or other tube-shaped pasta
• Finely grated Pecorino or Parmesan
• ingredient info: Guanciale is available at specialty foods stores and online sources.

Instructions

1. Purée tomatoes with juices in a blender; set aside. Cook onion, guanciale, pancetta, oil, red pepper flakes, and 1/2 cup water in a large heavy pot over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until water is evaporated and fat begins to render, 8-10 minutes.
2. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring often, until beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring often, until reduced by half, 5-8 minutes.
3. Add reserved tomato purée and bring to a boil. Cover pan partially with a lid, reduce heat, and simmer until meat is tender and flavors are melded, 40-45 minutes. Add sugar, if using; season with salt and pepper.
4. When sauce is almost done, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente; drain pasta.
5. Add pasta to sauce and toss to coat. Serve topped with Pecorino.
6. DO AHEAD: Sauce can be made 4 days ahead. Let cool, then chill until cold. Cover and keep chilled.